One thing to know first

Stop writing to it. Beyond that, this is often yours to fix for free.

Deleting a file removes its entry from the index and marks the space it occupied as reusable. The content stays exactly where it was until something else is written over it. That means the clock is measured in writes rather than in hours: a device left alone holds its deleted files more or less indefinitely, while one still in daily use can lose them within minutes. Stop using the device, and the odds stay where they are.

Often fixable yourself

Deleted files from laptop

A laptop in this state is very often something you can resolve yourself, at no cost, and this page tells you how before it tells you anything about us. Where that doesn't work, the rest explains what the fault usually is and what recovery involves.

What this usually turns out to be

Mechanically this is the same as any deletion from a working drive: the index entry is gone, the content is not. What makes a laptop the hardest place to be careful is that it is the machine you are reading this on. Everything you do while you think about it, from browsing to syncing to an update installing quietly in the background, writes into the free space that holds your deleted files, and a laptop is rarely idle even when nobody is touching it.

2.5-inch drives are built to survive being carried, which means they are also the ones most often dropped while running.

  • Ordinary deletionbetter news

    The index entry is gone, the content remains. This is the standard case and it recovers well.

  • Emptied from the recycle bin or trashbetter news

    Exactly the same situation. The bin was only ever an index entry too.

  • Deleted from a phone or camerabetter news

    Frequently recoverable from the card. On a modern phone, check the app's own recently-deleted album first, and most keep deleted items for thirty days.

  • Deleted on an SSD with TRIM

    The drive is told it may discard the blocks, and often does so within minutes. This case is genuinely unrecoverable, by anyone.

What to check first on a laptop

  1. Check the recycle bin, and check cloud sync history in OneDrive, iCloud or Google Drive, which quietly keep deleted versions for a period and are free.
  2. If the files are important, shut the machine down rather than continuing to use it while you decide.
  3. Recover from another computer with the drive connected as a secondary disk, not from the laptop itself.

What not to do

Do not keep using the machine to search for advice, and do not install recovery software onto it. Both write to the disk you are trying to preserve, and doing it from the affected machine is the commonest way a straightforward recovery is lost.

Try this before you pay anyone

Check the free options in this order before paying anyone anything

  1. Look in the recycle bin or trash first, then in the application's own recently-deleted folder. Photos apps, mail clients and most cloud tools keep deleted items for around thirty days, and this alone resolves a great many cases in under a minute.
  2. Check whether the file is in a backup or a synced cloud copy: File History or a Time Machine snapshot, or version history in OneDrive, Google Drive, Dropbox or iCloud. Version history survives a deletion that syncing propagated everywhere else.
  3. If none of those, stop using the device before running anything. Then recover with Recuva, PhotoRec, or Microsoft's free Windows File Recovery, always writing the recovered files to a different drive.
  4. For a memory card, take the card out of the camera and read it through a card reader rather than letting the camera or phone touch it again.

If the deleted file was on an SSD with TRIM enabled, it is very likely gone at the flash level within minutes and no tool or lab will bring it back. That is worth accepting early rather than paying to discover. On a mechanical drive there is no such mechanism, and the file waits until something overwrites it.

How recoverable this is

Frequently excellent on mechanical drives and memory cards, especially where the device was taken out of use quickly. This is the single most self-recoverable case on the site and most readers should not be paying anyone for it. The exception is an SSD with TRIM, where deletion is effectively immediate and permanent regardless of who is asked.

What moves it, for your device specifically:

  • How much has been written to the device since the deletion
  • Whether the filesystem journal still holds the original entries
  • Whether the files were large and contiguous, or small and scattered

We will not give you a percentage for your device, and you should be wary of anyone who does. Nobody can know what is recoverable until the media has been imaged and read. What is above describes this class of failure; your drive gets its own answer after an assessment, in writing, at no cost.

What it costs

from $249

Deleted, formatted or corrupt (drive healthy)

Files deleted, a drive reformatted, a partition lost, a filesystem that won't mount. The media itself is fine; the map to the data isn't.

What moves a job within its band: capacity, how much of the media is unstable, whether the filesystem is encrypted, and how much of the drive has to be read before the files you need are reachable. You get one fixed figure after the assessment and it does not move afterwards. If we can’t recover what matters to you, there is no recovery fee.

All published prices → · Work through the diagnoser →

Next step

Tell us what failed.

Free assessment. Fixed quote before recovery starts. No recovery, no fee. Sydney drop-off or Australia-wide by tracked post.